20090907 – Choteau
I spent most of the day driving US87 from Lewiston through Great Falls, then US89 past Fairfield and Freezout Lake to Choteau where I took a campsite at the city park. It was a day of beautiful scenery: larger fields, mostly wheat, now golden after the harvest and littered with straw bales. The land was rolling and open and there were always mountains on the horizon. These were the Snowy Mtns at first, then later the Little Belts, and now, this evening I am almost at the foothills of the Rockys. This was all punctuated by sunbreaks and showers and ever changing cloud patterns.
I plan to spend another day or two in this area before heading a little North to enter Glacier National Park. Part of my attraction to this area resulted from the Wings Over Big Sky birding festival during which Patt and I took a field trip here. That day was cold and blowing snow with very limited visibility. But there was enough to show that this area is quite undeveloped, and has great potential for viewing wildlife, and fab scenery. So – here I am.
Monday, September 7, 2009
Sunday, September 6, 2009
Another Day on the Prairie
20090906—Another Day on the Prairie
This morning there were 21 Turkey Vultures visible, roosting in the cottonwoods. They left shortly after being counted, before I got on US12 headed for Roundup. I poked along slowly for the first 30 miles, stopping often to be sure that the sparrows I was seeing were all Vesper or Savanna sparrows. They were, I think. There were so many crossing in front of the RV that I had to slow often going thru small flocks of them. I saw a lot of Western Meadowlarks as well, plus Turkey Vultures and had a real good look at a Swainson's Hawk and a pair of Loggerhead Shrikes.
After the first ~20 miles that paralleled Porcupine Creek, the land rose a bit to dry flat grasslands mostly used for grazing. There have been some better days in these parts. US12 once had a railroad track alongside that has now been removed. There was a brick schoolhouse at Vananda, almost the only remnant of that town. That building had a strong resemblance to the old Rice schoolhouse, only larger (maybe six rooms?) and of baked red brick. The next town, Ingomar, had a 6-10 abandoned buildings and one apparently operational store. From a distance it looked like a ghost town. Close up it was not that attractive, being of tarpaper and plywood vintage rather than the old board buildings that age more gracefully. Sumatra was on the map next, but was only a couple of completely flattened garage size buildings. Along the way I spent some time fantasizing about getting permission to return here to roll up the ~25 miles of 4 strand barb wire fence that was collapsed between the railroad embankment and the highway. By the time I reached Roundup I had gone 112 miles without available services. Thankfully I didn't need any. At Roundup I took advantage of the first roadside espresso stand (12oz double soy latte) I've seen on the return trip.
From Roundup I headed North on US87 to Grass Range, then West, still on US87 to Lewiston, enjoying the slightly higher, still arid, grasslands with the Snowy Mountains visible on the horizon to the East. Along the way I was able to tune in to Prairie Home Companion being broadcast from the Minnesota State Fair grandstand. And later to a program where a 45 minute short story was being read.
At Lewiston I checked into a commercial RV site, to get WiFi and do laundery. Which came after a 45 minute nap.
This morning there were 21 Turkey Vultures visible, roosting in the cottonwoods. They left shortly after being counted, before I got on US12 headed for Roundup. I poked along slowly for the first 30 miles, stopping often to be sure that the sparrows I was seeing were all Vesper or Savanna sparrows. They were, I think. There were so many crossing in front of the RV that I had to slow often going thru small flocks of them. I saw a lot of Western Meadowlarks as well, plus Turkey Vultures and had a real good look at a Swainson's Hawk and a pair of Loggerhead Shrikes.
After the first ~20 miles that paralleled Porcupine Creek, the land rose a bit to dry flat grasslands mostly used for grazing. There have been some better days in these parts. US12 once had a railroad track alongside that has now been removed. There was a brick schoolhouse at Vananda, almost the only remnant of that town. That building had a strong resemblance to the old Rice schoolhouse, only larger (maybe six rooms?) and of baked red brick. The next town, Ingomar, had a 6-10 abandoned buildings and one apparently operational store. From a distance it looked like a ghost town. Close up it was not that attractive, being of tarpaper and plywood vintage rather than the old board buildings that age more gracefully. Sumatra was on the map next, but was only a couple of completely flattened garage size buildings. Along the way I spent some time fantasizing about getting permission to return here to roll up the ~25 miles of 4 strand barb wire fence that was collapsed between the railroad embankment and the highway. By the time I reached Roundup I had gone 112 miles without available services. Thankfully I didn't need any. At Roundup I took advantage of the first roadside espresso stand (12oz double soy latte) I've seen on the return trip.
From Roundup I headed North on US87 to Grass Range, then West, still on US87 to Lewiston, enjoying the slightly higher, still arid, grasslands with the Snowy Mountains visible on the horizon to the East. Along the way I was able to tune in to Prairie Home Companion being broadcast from the Minnesota State Fair grandstand. And later to a program where a 45 minute short story was being read.
At Lewiston I checked into a commercial RV site, to get WiFi and do laundery. Which came after a 45 minute nap.
Along the Yellowstone
20090905—Along the Yellowstone
I followed the Yellowstone River all day today, mostly along I94 heading West thru Miles City to Forsyth. All this passed through grasslands with a lot of irrigation (sprinklers and canals) from the river. This is generally rolling topography with larger fields (owned by large ranches as well) of wheat, hay, some grazing and some sugar beets.
At the confluence of the Powder River with the Yellowstone and there is a sign saying that the area had been the site of Gen. Custer's camp a couple of weeks before the Little Bighorn battle. There is a lot of Custer info in this area.
I followed frontage roads at some points, with signs pointing out that it was Old Highway 10 which seemed to give me some connection to the land. The day was very hot, reaching 95 along the way. I was thankful for the investment in repairs to the AC we had made back in April.
I pulled off for the evening at a Montana State 'fishing access' site knowing that these usually also serve as undeveloped campgrounds. This one was almost full, with the ~30 sites occupied by the residents of Forsyth, only seven blocks to the South. This was less attractive than most, with at least 4 rigs running generators constantly. One was being used to power a household oscillating fan to cool some (fellow) geezers in lawn chairs. There was also a yapping dog, the joy of someone's life, I'm sure. And an incident around 12:30AM involving some kids on bicycles doing some (not quiet) racing around the campground. There were also a lot of families thoroughly enjoying the outdoors, swimming and fishing, despite the heat.
I sat at a breezeless picnic table and finished “The Bean Trees” by Barbara Kingsolver. I was sorry when it was over -- I loved the characters and wanted to live more of their lives with them. There was some quiet movement toward dark in the large cottonwoods around my site. I identified the source to be a roosting collection of Turkey Vultures.
There was no Internet access, of course, but I did get in a short conversation with Patt at home.
I followed the Yellowstone River all day today, mostly along I94 heading West thru Miles City to Forsyth. All this passed through grasslands with a lot of irrigation (sprinklers and canals) from the river. This is generally rolling topography with larger fields (owned by large ranches as well) of wheat, hay, some grazing and some sugar beets.
At the confluence of the Powder River with the Yellowstone and there is a sign saying that the area had been the site of Gen. Custer's camp a couple of weeks before the Little Bighorn battle. There is a lot of Custer info in this area.
I followed frontage roads at some points, with signs pointing out that it was Old Highway 10 which seemed to give me some connection to the land. The day was very hot, reaching 95 along the way. I was thankful for the investment in repairs to the AC we had made back in April.
I pulled off for the evening at a Montana State 'fishing access' site knowing that these usually also serve as undeveloped campgrounds. This one was almost full, with the ~30 sites occupied by the residents of Forsyth, only seven blocks to the South. This was less attractive than most, with at least 4 rigs running generators constantly. One was being used to power a household oscillating fan to cool some (fellow) geezers in lawn chairs. There was also a yapping dog, the joy of someone's life, I'm sure. And an incident around 12:30AM involving some kids on bicycles doing some (not quiet) racing around the campground. There were also a lot of families thoroughly enjoying the outdoors, swimming and fishing, despite the heat.
I sat at a breezeless picnic table and finished “The Bean Trees” by Barbara Kingsolver. I was sorry when it was over -- I loved the characters and wanted to live more of their lives with them. There was some quiet movement toward dark in the large cottonwoods around my site. I identified the source to be a roosting collection of Turkey Vultures.
There was no Internet access, of course, but I did get in a short conversation with Patt at home.
Friday, September 4, 2009
The Yellowstone River to Glendive Montana
20090904—The Yellowstone River to Glendive Montana
This morning I woke with an idea that I could get back to the higher parts or Theodore Roosevelt National Park before the construction workers arrived and caused a slowdown. Well, by the time I got to the road from the camp site, they had already started, but the pilot car had just departed and the flagger let me go. So I didn't have any delays after all. I got to a nice look out spot and went through my morning routine there, starting with a couple of cups of coffee. It's nice to travel in an RV.
From there I saw a single bison, an older bull, coming across a small meadow way below me. It grazed it's way along and eventually disappeared in a tree lined gully. It had not reappeared in an hour or so, so I decided to take a hike across some plateaus. Eventually I did spot it lying down and chewing its cud. The walk was refreshing, and, like last evening, gave me the feeling that I had that whole park to myself. I watched other bison from the road for a while after that, then drove slowly down, reaching the park entrance about noon.
Lunch was at an USFS picnic area and campsite just outside the park. I was attended by a downy woodpecker, vesper sparrows, cedar waxwings, mountain bluebirds and mourning doves. I was also entertained there by a guy practicing with his archery gear, aiming at a turkey target propped against a campsite marker.
From there I headed North to Watford City, then West, then took some State highways crossing to the West into Montana, after ~40 miles, near Sidney. MT16 took me ~70 miles into Glendive for the evening. Most of the route after lunch kept me along the Yellowstone River which flows Northeast to join the Missouri just North of Watford City. The Yellowstone is the color of milky coffee here. I saw irrigation equipment that certainly depends on the water from that river, but none was running. It is probably late in the season for irrigation, with a lot of wheat harvest and hay cutting and baling underway here.
This morning I woke with an idea that I could get back to the higher parts or Theodore Roosevelt National Park before the construction workers arrived and caused a slowdown. Well, by the time I got to the road from the camp site, they had already started, but the pilot car had just departed and the flagger let me go. So I didn't have any delays after all. I got to a nice look out spot and went through my morning routine there, starting with a couple of cups of coffee. It's nice to travel in an RV.
From there I saw a single bison, an older bull, coming across a small meadow way below me. It grazed it's way along and eventually disappeared in a tree lined gully. It had not reappeared in an hour or so, so I decided to take a hike across some plateaus. Eventually I did spot it lying down and chewing its cud. The walk was refreshing, and, like last evening, gave me the feeling that I had that whole park to myself. I watched other bison from the road for a while after that, then drove slowly down, reaching the park entrance about noon.
Lunch was at an USFS picnic area and campsite just outside the park. I was attended by a downy woodpecker, vesper sparrows, cedar waxwings, mountain bluebirds and mourning doves. I was also entertained there by a guy practicing with his archery gear, aiming at a turkey target propped against a campsite marker.
From there I headed North to Watford City, then West, then took some State highways crossing to the West into Montana, after ~40 miles, near Sidney. MT16 took me ~70 miles into Glendive for the evening. Most of the route after lunch kept me along the Yellowstone River which flows Northeast to join the Missouri just North of Watford City. The Yellowstone is the color of milky coffee here. I saw irrigation equipment that certainly depends on the water from that river, but none was running. It is probably late in the season for irrigation, with a lot of wheat harvest and hay cutting and baling underway here.
Northern Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park
20090903—Northern Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park
I Headed North on US85 this morning after an eventually successful search for a propane refill. Although frustrating at first, I came to see that the difficulty in finding this made it all the more important to do so, since I need it for both refrigeration and cooking and I expect to be another week or so in Southwestern North Dakota and Southeastern Montana where availability might continue to be a problem.
The ~ 50 mile route North passes near and in a few places through designated USFS National Grasslands. These are parcels, sometimes contiguous with another, of a section of land, or sometimes half sections. I pulled into a picnic site on one of these for lunch and saw that they do not require fees to use them. That site had a restroom and several resident tent campers--six males in hunting garb. Several appeared to be carrying concealed sidearms (bulges in the right places under their T shirts). I don't remember what the regs on that are here, and also do not know what hunting seasons might be open, although it seems early for hunting season just now.
After lunch I arrived at TRNP and got a site for overnight and a nap. The camp ground is 5 miles in along the park access road. Starting up the road later, it was, as I had been warned at the entrance, under construction. I waited 20 minutes for a guide car, then followed that for ~4 miles. During that stretch I could not pull off anywhere to take in the fabulous sights. After that stretch there were ~eight beautiful miles of road, with some nice overlooks and a lot (~100) of bison. One other car had come in with me, and that couple left (turned back) after reaching the end of the road. For the next three hours I had the upper half of TRNP to myself as far as I could tell. I hung out, and as sunset neared I tried to capture some panoramas with the camera. Then heated a can of soup for supper and headed slowly out. Traveling as dusk showed me some wildlife that had not been visible on the way in—a couple of wild turkeys, 6 deer, some rabbits.
I'm finishing this to a nice night insect sound chorus in a way underused campground. Perhaps the warnings about road construction are prompting potential visitors to go elsewhere.
I Headed North on US85 this morning after an eventually successful search for a propane refill. Although frustrating at first, I came to see that the difficulty in finding this made it all the more important to do so, since I need it for both refrigeration and cooking and I expect to be another week or so in Southwestern North Dakota and Southeastern Montana where availability might continue to be a problem.
The ~ 50 mile route North passes near and in a few places through designated USFS National Grasslands. These are parcels, sometimes contiguous with another, of a section of land, or sometimes half sections. I pulled into a picnic site on one of these for lunch and saw that they do not require fees to use them. That site had a restroom and several resident tent campers--six males in hunting garb. Several appeared to be carrying concealed sidearms (bulges in the right places under their T shirts). I don't remember what the regs on that are here, and also do not know what hunting seasons might be open, although it seems early for hunting season just now.
After lunch I arrived at TRNP and got a site for overnight and a nap. The camp ground is 5 miles in along the park access road. Starting up the road later, it was, as I had been warned at the entrance, under construction. I waited 20 minutes for a guide car, then followed that for ~4 miles. During that stretch I could not pull off anywhere to take in the fabulous sights. After that stretch there were ~eight beautiful miles of road, with some nice overlooks and a lot (~100) of bison. One other car had come in with me, and that couple left (turned back) after reaching the end of the road. For the next three hours I had the upper half of TRNP to myself as far as I could tell. I hung out, and as sunset neared I tried to capture some panoramas with the camera. Then heated a can of soup for supper and headed slowly out. Traveling as dusk showed me some wildlife that had not been visible on the way in—a couple of wild turkeys, 6 deer, some rabbits.
I'm finishing this to a nice night insect sound chorus in a way underused campground. Perhaps the warnings about road construction are prompting potential visitors to go elsewhere.
Wednesday, September 2, 2009
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
20090901 and 02 -- Theodore Roosevelt National Park
I've spent the last two days in the park. I spent several hours driving slowly past bison (who were unconcerned by a car, even an RV, just a few feet from them. Think driving through a herd of cattle on the road), wild horses (just a few) and prairie dogs. I hiked in the cooler part or the day today, seeing a few towhees, goldfinches, sparrows, and a Turkey Vulture and watched two Golden Eagles bathe in a stream and groom afterwards. Not a very busy birding place this season. I enjoyed a thunderstorm, took pics of a sunset and sat a lot at the campground where human sounds were virtually drowned out by the insects.
Despite the short post, this is one of my favorite places. I love the quiet ambiance. Pleasant valley is the name of one of the attractions here. The whole place is quietly pleasant, a great place to forget the cares of day to day life. I'm carefree just now, but thoroughly enjoying it anyhow.
Check out the attached link to get the details on this wonderful place:
http://www.nps.gov/thro/index.htm
I've spent the last two days in the park. I spent several hours driving slowly past bison (who were unconcerned by a car, even an RV, just a few feet from them. Think driving through a herd of cattle on the road), wild horses (just a few) and prairie dogs. I hiked in the cooler part or the day today, seeing a few towhees, goldfinches, sparrows, and a Turkey Vulture and watched two Golden Eagles bathe in a stream and groom afterwards. Not a very busy birding place this season. I enjoyed a thunderstorm, took pics of a sunset and sat a lot at the campground where human sounds were virtually drowned out by the insects.
Despite the short post, this is one of my favorite places. I love the quiet ambiance. Pleasant valley is the name of one of the attractions here. The whole place is quietly pleasant, a great place to forget the cares of day to day life. I'm carefree just now, but thoroughly enjoying it anyhow.
Check out the attached link to get the details on this wonderful place:
http://www.nps.gov/thro/index.htm
Monday, August 31, 2009
Back to North Dakota
20090831—Back to North Dakota
This morning I returned to the USFS Ranger Station in Lemmon and talked with two very helpful staff who gave a lot of oral and printed info about the National Grasslands program. I bought a map showing the FS lands from there North to above the northern unit of the Theodore Roosevelt National Park. I used this to decide to follow US12 to US85 heading North to North Dakota. Along the way I was entertained by a radio program geared to the Indian Nation (at the Standing Rock Reservation, just to the North), giving calendars of events and public service announcements mixed in with comments from a curiously unselfconscious host who made a running commentary on the announcements and the 1960's songs he played. I wish the station had a website so I could stream it at home. I used the map to walk some grassland parcels a bit and visit a small outlier National Wildlife Refuge, unlisted on the State map. I have a lot of literature to read later this evening.
I need to mention a wonderful metal sculpture in Lemmon built up from a couple thousand used and discarded items (tractor seats, belt link chains, skill saws, bicycle sprockets and many other things) all recognizable. Needless to say—I got pics. The sculpture depicted a larger than life cowboy riding a bucking dinosaur (the kind with a couple of horns running from his forehead down the middle of his face and with a large, wide frontal shield, kind of rhinoceros shaped). The 60 million year anachronism fit in nicely with the petrified wood park, only blocks away. Or maybe the folks there are creationists and the world is only 4500 years old?
When I reached I94 I headed East 18 miles to Dickenson where I scored some soy yogurt, then turned back West to reach the Theodore Roosevelt National Park ~5:00PM.
I checked into a commercial RV Park just outside the gate to get WiFi access.
This morning I returned to the USFS Ranger Station in Lemmon and talked with two very helpful staff who gave a lot of oral and printed info about the National Grasslands program. I bought a map showing the FS lands from there North to above the northern unit of the Theodore Roosevelt National Park. I used this to decide to follow US12 to US85 heading North to North Dakota. Along the way I was entertained by a radio program geared to the Indian Nation (at the Standing Rock Reservation, just to the North), giving calendars of events and public service announcements mixed in with comments from a curiously unselfconscious host who made a running commentary on the announcements and the 1960's songs he played. I wish the station had a website so I could stream it at home. I used the map to walk some grassland parcels a bit and visit a small outlier National Wildlife Refuge, unlisted on the State map. I have a lot of literature to read later this evening.
I need to mention a wonderful metal sculpture in Lemmon built up from a couple thousand used and discarded items (tractor seats, belt link chains, skill saws, bicycle sprockets and many other things) all recognizable. Needless to say—I got pics. The sculpture depicted a larger than life cowboy riding a bucking dinosaur (the kind with a couple of horns running from his forehead down the middle of his face and with a large, wide frontal shield, kind of rhinoceros shaped). The 60 million year anachronism fit in nicely with the petrified wood park, only blocks away. Or maybe the folks there are creationists and the world is only 4500 years old?
When I reached I94 I headed East 18 miles to Dickenson where I scored some soy yogurt, then turned back West to reach the Theodore Roosevelt National Park ~5:00PM.
I checked into a commercial RV Park just outside the gate to get WiFi access.
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